Check engine light, running rough and more...

Car: Subaru, Legacy, 1998, 2.5l - Back to Fix-It - Subaru Legacy Repair Manuals

Q.98 Subaru Legacy Outback, 5 speed manual, 123,000 miles, just bought, no warranty car ran great and strong. Tonight after a 30 minute freeway run, sitting at a stop light, car began to run extremely rough, engine light came on and flashing. Huge plume of smoke trailed us as we drove the two blocks home. Fluids all check out, no apparent leakage on exhaust system. Let car sit for 20 minutes, tried to restart and would not, until I held the pedal to the floor as if it were flooded and it started, idled very roughly again. Gas tank on empty and it appears to be exhausting raw fuel. Any thoughts?

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I already checked/done: Just research so far, looking a buying and OBD, any suggestions for that as well?

Answer the flashing check engine light indicates a misfire. That explains running rough.
what we need now is to narrow this down, need to know what codes are stored
i expect at least a P030? Code. Indicating what cylinder.
what color was the smoke ?
by the way if you can get to an autozone or kragen, i believe they still pull codes for free.

Addition Ok I'm back. Went to Checker Auto and used thier OBD, got a P0302 reading, cylinder 2 missfire. Replaced plug and wire in that cylinder and no change. When starting have to hold the gas pedal to the floor, its starts kinda rough and a huge blue smoke plume appears briefly. Wont idle, must keep gas pedal depressed to idle at 2000 rpm or it dies. Its obviously its not hitting on all 4 cylinders as gas consumption is major. Filled tank this morning an found a leak under the area where the fill tube is, not sure if this contributes but another issue none the less. Any suggestions on the next step?

Answer what did the plug you removed look like? Blue smoke is usually oil, thats not a good sign. We will figure this out.

Addition Plug was a double platnum variety, had an odd pattern on the terminal sort of blackened on one third in a pyramid pattern. Now I am dealing with a dead battery. I have read that the battery connections can play a role with the electrical, was reported to be a hidden mystery solved by another poster. I am not a mechanic but grew up working on dirt bikes and have a basic knowledge of the combustion engine. It acts like its flooding out or getting too much gas. The older motors, before fuel injection I recall would flood and the only way to get them to start was to hold the gas pedal to the floor while starting. This acts very similar. I question the fuel injectors and fuel air mixture. The mileage was unbelieveable, we drove for about 50 miles changing RPM and watching the CEL quit flashing at the higher RPM's. Between the gas leak we found and the poor mileage, I estimate we used 5-7 gallons of gas in the 50 miles. Temp was never an issue as it held in the same spot on the gauge the entire time. Oil level checked again and no change, coolant full. Found no oil in the coolant overflow.

Answer definately make sure you have a good charge on battery and charging system is
working good, the same place that scanned your car will also check these items for free.

2 things come to mind. One that you may have an injector stuck open, was the spark
plug wet? Check the new one. Second, these cars have a history of dropping valve
guides and not letting the valves close all the way. Can you do a compression test?

Addition Dealing with dead battery issue, jump started, heavy blue smoke and wont idle. Drove half block and lost all electrical, wont restart. Jumped again and same outcome. Noticed a clicking sound coming from the dash. I believe it was the CD eject motor continuously cycling, may explain dead battery. Replaced with new battery, fired right up, idled on its own, still blue smoke. Checked oil and coolant levels and all good. Drove the car and when it came up to temp, blue smoke all but gone, CEL light still flashing and still runs a little rough but much better, strong fuel smell with the exhaust. I noticed an exhaust leak coming from behind what I believe is the catalytic converter. I have a theory, because we ran the gas tank nearly empty, beyond just the fuel light in the dash coming on, and remember the leak in the fuel fill tube area, I believe something got pulled into the fuel system and stuck the injector open. I think I am going to swap out injector two with injector 3 and have another OBD scan done and see if the P0302 code moves to a P0303 code. Again I am not a mechanic by trade but not afraid to take something apart, can you advise if I am thinking along the same lines and any tips for removing and replacing the fuel injectors. Ive removed the battery terminals as well due to the electrical issues I may need to tackle later. Please advise.

Answer good thinking about swapping injectors. Have the alternator checked. Could be a
problem. Otherwise sounds like your on the way here. Dont think anything came
through your fuel system from tank to injector. Would have been caught in filter.
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Disconnect connector from fuel injector.
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Remove fuel injector from fuel pipe assembly.
Installation is in the reverse order of removal. CAUTION: Replace 0-rings and insulator.
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(1) 0-Ring B
(2) 0-Ring A
(3) Fuel Injector
(4) Insulator
(5) Fuel Injector Cup
Tightening Torque: 3.4 0.5 N. M (2.5 0

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Check engine light, running rough and more...